COS 7: UK

London!

My last country before America was a perfect transition period to ease the reverse culture shock. Best of all, I got to stay with/see four friends from my semester in Sydney! Stevie met Rob and I at Kings Cross and we grabbed burgers (gf buns & onion rings!) before heading to her apt. We went into Soho that evening and met up with my family friends and Robs coworker and friend for dinner at an incredible Thai place that changes the menu each week based on what's locally available. They then took us to a speakeasy in China Town: the sort of place you have to know about before you can get in and where cocktails are elaborate and pretty.

Tuesday Rob and I did the more traditional sightseeing. We walked to the Tower of London, which of course included the bridge. We strolled through the south bank and had a look at The Globe theater as well as the Millennium bridge before before making our way into the  Tate Modern art museum. It was dark and cold and rainy outside, so we ended up spending most of our day going through the free exhibits in the massive and well curated museum. It was my favorite of all the museums in the trip, and we could've spent a lot more time there if we had the time. Instead, we met Stevie and Jazz for dinner at an Italian place (gf menu. Guys. Spoiled.) before heading off to see a new musical in the smaller theater in the Globe called Romantics Anonymous. The show was a typical sweet, slightly quirky but charming production, and the music was infectious. It was fun spending the train ride (and flower ice cream detour) home analyzing it with Stevie.

Wednesday we went to the national portrait gallery in the morning while we waited to spend the day in the theater. The one thing I was most excited for in London was seeing Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. Turns out, the thing I had the strongest emotional reaction to was getting Chipotle. The show however, which is in two parts, was enjoyable. I won't say more here, as it's important to keep the secrets. If you're interested in getting tickets I can give you some pointers.

We spent our last full day in London walking around Buckingham Palace, parliament square(where big ben is currently covered in scaffolding and under renovations) and Camden Town. Camden town markets were delightful and full of delicious food and gf options. I loved going to different areas of the city and seeing how each neighborhood has its own character. Stevie and Berta joined us that night for a free comedy show that was 50% funny, 30% amusing, 20% really painful. But drinks after were fun, and we rounded up the night reminiscing with pictures of Alice and our time together 4 years ago. I'm lucky to have friends who I don't see for years but who still love me and make me laugh till I cry. Thank you guys for hosting us and making our time in London wonderful.

After quick goodbyes Friday morning, Rob and I were off on different trains to different airports. You see, I was on a quest to surprise my best friend Allison in Boston. Her boyfriend and I had been messaging secretly about it for literally months and I was going wild not being able to tell her we didn't have to wait until Christmas to see each other!

Unfortunately my flight was delayed 3 hours, so instead of getting in in time for dinner, I barely showed up before she went to bed! I had a quick turn around in Boston. Enough time to chat with friends and brunch with family before flying home to Cleveland.

Two months of traveling have taught me a lot. They've showed me the type of person I've become over these past few years. They've tested me and surprised me. They've shown me the beauty in the world : in the gorgeous landscapes and kind souls. I saw mountains, valleys, deserts, rain forests, villages, and cities. I traveled north from Cape Town to London. I was surrounded by old and new friends, and sometimes just by my own wits. I'm better at goodbyes than I used to be, knowing that if the universe wants us to see each other again, we will. Traveling became as comfortable as any other daily routine, and I stayed slow as I went from day to day, trying to appreciate the simple things. But now it's time to be home. Home to those to whom I owe who I am at my essence, and the courage it takes to meet each great adventure.

Thank you for your support, interest, and love. Until the next adventure.

COS 6: Spain

What a beautiful feeling to land in the Madrid airport knowing I was about to be seeing friends from America. I spent 5 days at my college friend Gabby’s beautiful studio apartment in Malasaña. The neighborhood is popular and busy with tons of shops and restaurants. We were close to many major parts of the city, and the metro was simple to navigate for everywhere else.

On the first night, we went shoe shopping, as my backpackers wardrobe was not sufficient for two weeks in Europe. We then met her friends at a bar with incredible tapas. Everywhere gabby took me was cheap and delicious: she would order for me (in gorgeous Spanish) and I would undoubtedly love whatever came out. Breakfast the next morning was no exception, as we ate on a sidewalk cafe and I was nearly giddy with the authentic European feeling of it all. We proceeded to go clothes shopping, which was a lot of me not knowing what was in style and being confused by all the fur and large sweaters. We did a bit of a city tour and ate ham (which is huge in Madrid) before coming back for a siesta: one of the best parts about Spain.
What a beautiful feeling to land in the Madrid airport knowing I was about to be seeing friends from America. I spent 5 days at my college friend Gabby’s beautiful studio apartment in Malasaña. The neighborhood is popular and busy with tons of shops and restaurants. We were close to many major parts of the city, and the metro was simple to navigate for everywhere else.

On the first night, we went shoe shopping, as my backpackers wardrobe was not sufficient for two weeks in Europe. We then met her friends at a bar with incredible tapas. Everywhere gabby took me was cheap and delicious: she would order for me (in gorgeous Spanish) and I would undoubtedly love whatever came out. Breakfast the next morning was no exception, as we ate on a sidewalk cafe and I was nearly giddy with the authentic European feeling of it all. We proceeded to go clothes shopping, which was a lot of me not knowing what was in style and being confused by all the fur and large sweaters. We did a bit of a city tour and ate ham (which is huge in Madrid) before coming back for a siesta: one of the best parts about Spain.

Since it was Saturday, and gabby has incredible internet (I forgot what I'd been missing) we got nachos and burritos to go, and got to watch the EPIC OSU PSU game! It was certainly a dramatic finish, which we hardly kept awake to watch, but so worth it. It's good to be a Buckeye.

Early Sunday morning, one of my good friends from graduate school, Rob, flew in from the states. We went to brunch at a great little place nearby, and the walked around to see some of the more touristy areas, like near city hall. Every day in Madrid was a combination of great food, cheap drinks, and beautiful walks.

The next day Rob and I went to the Reina Sophia museum, which was full of more modern art, including Picasso and Dali. Tuesday involved shopping, wandering, and Halloween with some of Gabby's friends! A very fun night out for our last hurrah in the city. I am so glad I got to see Gabby and spend so much time together after so many years apart: I'm looking forward to the next adventure where we meet!

Early Wednesday morning, Rob and I took the train to Barcelona. What an incredible, and busy, city. We spent days wandering through the streets of the gothic neighborhood and the areas around it, mesmerized by the tiny winding streets and gorgeous architecture. On Thursday we took a morning tour of the gothic district, which included local insight to the protests in Catalina, and an accidental stumbling upon said protests. Regardless of the political situation, it was actually quiet beautiful to witness the Catalan pride during the protest as the crowd sang their anthem.

 After tapas we went on an afternoon tour featuring the famous architect Antoni Gaudi. If you've never been to Barcelona, please take a minute to Google his work. It is incredible and indescribable by someone like me. Unreal. We made friends on our tour and met up with them for most of our future endeavors. Including a free visit to the Picasso museum that evening, followed by sangria.

Friday morning included a visit to a local market La Boqueria, which was mostly tourists but cheap and delicious. We then walked through another neighborhood and found ourselves in a park that included a beautiful pond and the Catalonian parliament building. We took a bus and then a cable car to Montjuic Castle which is on a hill that overlooks the whole city, and on the way we passed the Olympic village and stadium from 1992. After walking down the hill, we met up with our friends and watched the spectacular lights and music show at Font Majica.

Saturday started with another market trip before the exquisite Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s masterpiece. The church has been under construction for over 100 years, and is expected to be completed in 2026. It is the most beautiful and moving building I've ever had the privilege to witness. The light shines through the stain glass windows, cool colors where the sun rises, and warm colors where the sun sets,and creates gorgeous beams of color through the church. The architecture is all connected to nature and soaked in symbolism. Although Gaudi has been dead for 91 years, generations have taken it upon themselves to ensure his vision is honored. A true work of genius, and a breathtaking connection to a higher power. I'm not sure any religion has lived up to the glory of this masterpiece.

We transitioned to Parc Güell, another Gaudi project that was supposed to be a housing development, but is now mostly a park known for it's mosaics. We also toured Gaudi’s house which has been turned into a museum. The mosaics in the park are gorgeous and play with connections to nature.

That evening we met our friends for a flamenco show. It was lively and beautifully performed! Although flamenco originates in the south of Spain, I'm glad we had the opportunity to witness it. We went to dinner at El Nacional, an area of resturaunts recommended to us by a Barcelona girl I'd met in Madrid. It was the best meal I've had in months, if not years. I'm certainly eating well in Europe!

Sunday we took advantage of the free first Sunday of the month to go to the National Museum of Art of Catalonia. We also continued our incredible food tour of Spain with amazing tacos and gluten free crepes. We tried to see the Castellers, but the website gave us the wrong time so we missed it! So sad.

We redeemed our night at a salsa club! It was so fun to dance with Rob again, and there was even a little Zumba style session halfway through. I had missed dancing a lot, and I loved watching all the incredible dancers.

Spain was incredible. The food and culture were wonderful and we met such great people. It was fairly more expensive in Barcelona, but there was SO much to do. I hope I get to go back some day to see the rest of the country!

COS 5: Uganda

My tenth African Country (and the final one for this trip) was Uganda. I said goodbye to my friends in Kigali and went to Lake Bunyonyi : a beautiful lake in the hills near Kabale. I only had a small hiccup as I has forgotten to print my visa receipt. Apparently my almost-tears of frustration were unnecessary as there is a business nearby who prints for the nearly 20 tourists a day who also forget.

I booked my Uganda adventures through Amagara Tours, as I wanted to see the gorillas and I didn't want to be stressed by arranging the permits myself. The accommodation I stayed at was incredibly nice as I was in a private abode on the side of the island with a queen sized bed overlooking the lake and hills. I even had a hot shower with a lake view. The deep blues and greens were gorgeous.

The place was much quieter than Mijo in Kigali, and I found myself missing the chaos! But I enjoyed reading, talking naps, and soaking in the views. I had a late start on my second day, and it was raining off and on, so I had a very chill day, alternating between the common porch and my private bungalow. It's so quiet on the island. You hear the birds chirping and the lake splashing, occasionally a motor boat, and not much else.

Wednesday was Gorilla day! I had to take a boat at 5:45am to start my journey to the rainforest. After a an hour or so driving up into the mountains, I was briefed and put with a group of 3 others to go find the gorillas! We hiked from 8:30 until about 10:15 where we finally met up with the trackers who had left an hour before us to find our troupe. We then spent an hour viewing  (basically  following around) the gorilla troupe which has 10 gorillas in it- including a very adorable baby gorilla. I took a lot of photos and videos, but I also tried to simply observe and appreciate their presence and behaviors. It was incredible to watch. At one point a 5 year old walked right next to me and I was told to freeze and let her pass. There were moments it felt like the gorillas were posing for us, or where it was obvious to feel their intentions. A mother pulling down branches so her baby was hidden from our view, or two siblings staying close to each other to see what the other was doing. I am so glad I got to experience it all.

We took about an hour and a half to hike back up, including lunch. It was mainly straight up. And it was difficult! I wore my knee brace and it helped, but we stopped a lot. After getting back we received certificates and said it goodbyes. I was so excited to be heading towards my accommodation by 1:30. Africa had other plans. The vehicle I was in broke down a couple kilometers away from the office, and we ended up having to walk back uphill because obviously the drivers ran out of airtime. At which point a torrential downpour started. Eventually, another car was sent (from 90 minutes away) to come retrieve us.

Luckily, when I finally did get back, one of my friends I met in Kigali was there! It was fun to catch up and hang out before my two days of traveling the next day. I took an 8 hour bus to Kampala, followed by a 2 hour minibus to Entebbe, slept for 3 hours in a hostel, and left for the airport at 1:45am. My first flight was to Cairo, and while we took off again I saw the pyramids from the air! So freaking cool. My second flight was to Madrid! Farewell Africa, hello Europe!

COS 4: Rwanda

I'm going to first give great detail of my border crossing from Tanzania to Rwanda. There isn't much information as to how to do it by bus, and I want to help out future travelers. Skip down if you wish.

I started in Mwanza, TZ and stayed over night at Millennium Square Hotel. I bought my ticket to Benaco the night before at the bus rank nearby (Nyagezi) for 20,000 TSH (about 10USD). A guard walked me the 5 minutes to the bus rank at 5:15am. Reporting time was 5:30am. I put my bag under the bus and was assigned a seat. The bus was a 5 column,12 row charter bus slated to leave at 6am.

We pulled out at 6am with about 10 people on the bus. At about 6:15 we were told to get off the bus to buy tickets for the ferry (I assume. It was in swahili. I do a lot of watching other people to know what I'm supposed to do.) The ticket was 1000TSH (about 50 cents). We then proceeded to the ferry and rode it across Lake Victoria for about thirty minutes. At some point the conductor called for everyone to get on the bus and I noticed that about 10 more people had joined us.

Oh Botswana. How you have spoiled me with your paved roads. Most of the 9 hour ride was on dirt road or straight up potholes. My phone thought I had climbed 120 flights of stairs that day. We did have two bathroom breaks, which was exciting, but squat toilets are not my favorite. The bus wasnt as crowded as I expected as there were rarely people standing, but a couple and their young son took up the two seats next to me. At 2:45am we reached Benaco (or Benako. Or kasulo. Depending on the map).

 I took a taxi to the Rusumo border gate for 20,000 TSH (9USD). I went throug I'm going to first give great detail of my border crossing from Tanzania to Rwanda. There isn't much information as to how to do it by bus, and I want to help out future travelers. Skip down if you wish.

I started in Mwanza, TZ and stayed over night at Millennium Square Hotel. I bought my ticket to Benaco the night before at the bus rank nearby (Nyagezi) for 20,000 TSH (about 10USD). A guard walked me the 5 minutes to the bus rank at 5:15am. Reporting time was 5:30am. I put my bag under the bus and was assigned a seat. The bus was a 5 column,12 row charter bus slated to leave at 6am.

We pulled out at 6am with about 10 people on the bus. At about 6:15 we were told to get off the bus to buy tickets for the ferry (I assume. It was in swahili. I do a lot of watching other people to know what I'm supposed to do.) The ticket was 1000TSH (about 50 cents). We then proceeded to the ferry and rode it across Lake Victoria for about thirty minutes. At some point the conductor called for everyone to get on the bus and I noticed that about 10 more people had joined us.

Oh Botswana. How you have spoiled me with your paved roads. Most of the 9 hour ride was on dirt road or straight up potholes. My phone thought I had climbed 120 flights of stairs that day. We did have two bathroom breaks, which was exciting, but squat toilets are not my favorite. The bus wasnt as crowded as I expected as there were rarely people standing, but a couple and their young son took up the two seats next to me. At 2:45am we reached Benaco (or Benako. Or kasulo. Depending on the map).

 I took a taxi to the Rusumo border gate for 20,000 TSH (9USD). I went through border beauracracy (stamp out of  TZ and into Rwanda in one building!), paid 30USD for my visa, walked across the border, used a forex, immediately boarded a bus, and we were pulling out to Kigali one hour and fifteen minutes later. Which, with the time change, was 3pm in Kigali.

My bus was not only driving on the right side of the road (CRAZY!) it was also luxury like I've never seen in Africa. Including USB chargers in the seat! What! It also cost 3000RWF (3.50USD). Although my guide book told me the trip should take 3 hours, we didn't arrive in Kigali until 8pm. I took a taxi from the bus station for 5,000RWF (6USD). In total, I traveled for 16.5 hours.

Needless to say, I slept well.

On my first full day in Kigali I mainly worked on job applications, did my laundry, and tried to get my head on straight. That night I went to dinner and then to an art gallery’s cocktail hour with a group of solo travelers from my hostel.

The next day, I went to the Kigali Genocide Memorial: a memorial dedicated to telling the story of the Rwandan Genocide, among other genocides, to honor victims and survivors, and to prevent future genocides around the world. The museum was moving. I was particularly touched by a picture of a two year old girl who had been murdered by a machete in 1994: the same age I was that year. It was important for me to honor this memorial and to learn all that I could about the one million people killed and the other atrocities that were committed here. We must learn the early signs of genocide if we are to prevent it from happening again. I fear we may not have learned our lesson yet.

In the evening, I went with a group from the hostel to a film festival showing at the convention center. The movie was called Victoria. It was German and it was all shot in a single shot, which was really artistically awesome. But the movies was extremely stressful to watch! It was fun going with the group though.

On Saturday I went to the Nyamirambo Women’s center, where I took a walking tour of the neighborhood which ended in a delicious lunch. I learned about the history of the historically Muslim neighborhood. Including the story of how museums finally gained rights and respect in Kigali. During the genocide people fled to places of worship for protection. Many who hid in churches were mastered, often with the help of the priests or pastors. The people in mosques are saved because the genocidaires were afraid of the rumored magic of Muslim people, so they would not enter.

The women's center is a self sufficient cooperative which provides classes and work for the women in the now diverse neighborhoods. If was a wonderful afternoon learning about the Rwandan lifestyle in Kigali. The tour guide was lively, the lunch was incredible, and the shop was amazing quality and prints.

That evening I went with the group from the hostel (which kept growing!) to see live music and crafts at a local  women's empowerment event. Afterwards a few of us came back and played cards for awhile. It was a very chill night and a great time with new friends.

Sunday we went to brunch at the Hôtel des Mille Collines, which is the hotel featured in Hotel Rwanda. The movie was filmed in South Africa so it doesn't look the same, but it was cool to see the history. Brunch was amazing and included love music and great friends. We went to a much taller hotel after to have tea on top of the roof for an incredible view of the city.

That evening we went to another film festival event where they screened a documentary called  MaliBlues about musicians in Mali and the persecutions they face from Islamic extremists. One of the most moving parts of the film was when a female international artist who had ran away from her village at 19 so she wouldn't have an arranged marriage, came back to her village after years. She sang a song to them about the horrors of female genital mutilation. It started a conversation among the women related to why it was being done and if it should be happening. The use of music and art to address social justice issues is extremely powerful and moving.

We finished up my last night with ice cream and laughter.

I really loved being in Kigali because I had a very nice, fairly big group of people to hang out with, and there were always things to do and experience. The city is clean and safe and livable and has a great vibe. Everyone in the hostel kept extending their stay because they were so happy in Kigali. I'm so glad I chose to stay so long. Everyone had wondered why I wanted to come here, but I just felt like I had to go. I'm so glad I did. The longer I was there the more I appreciated and admired the country and the people. It wasn't enough time for Rwanda. I must come back.

COS 3: Tanzania

The most time I spent in any country was Tanzania. Two weeks in this beautiful country were well spent, and probably not enough time.

Dar Es-Salaam
A massive port city full of diversity, I stayed at the Slow Leopard in a fancier part of town. The hostel was perfect: wifi, air con, free breakfast, showers...everything my heart desires. I spent my first day at Coco Beach, looking out at the Indian Ocean, before finding amazing gelato . I met a bunch of Tanzanian PCV’s who were in town for their MST. It was refreshing to talk to people who spoke my language (peace corps) and fun to hear about their experiences. I also met an American who's night I ruined by accident. He was explaining his trip plans and I was a bit too skeptical of his plan to do 6 countries by bus in a month. Sometimes I'm too practical and too much of a planner to be counted amongst the backpackers who are all basically flying by the seat of their pants. Oh well. We all travel differently! Live music topped off the relaxing day.

The next day I took the local busses into the main part of the city to explore. I ended up taking a tour with Dar Es-Salaam Center for Architectural Heritage. They just opened in July and are not well known yet, so I ended up having a private two hour walking tour of old and new architecture. There are buildings from the Sultan, from the Germans, from the British, from modern Tanzanian architects, and more modern western skyscrapers. I learned so much history during the tour and got a much better understanding of the city and its origins. It was a wonderful tour and I highly recommend it for anyone interested in history or architecture!

After, I went to the oldest Indian resturaunt in Tanzania, Purnima, and had vegetarian thali (I had no idea what I was ordering, but it wasn't bad!). I love walking through the streets of Dar. As long as people aren't trying to sell me something, I'm so happy to be exploring and seeing people in their daily life. My soul still aches to be living in the heart of it all in a major city. With about  20 million people in this city, there's a lot of living going on.

My incredible guide from earlier met me after lunch and took me to a massive market where I ended up buying flowy pants while we pushed our way through blocks and blocks of shops. People from all over TZ shop there for what they need. I didn't get any pictures because I was afraid of having my phone out, but it was unlike anything I'd ever seen.
The most time I spent in any country was Tanzania. Two weeks in this beautiful country were well spent, and probably not enough time.

Dar Es-Salaam
A massive port city full of diversity, I stayed at the Slow Leopard in a fancier part of town. The hostel was perfect: wifi, air con, free breakfast, showers...everything my heart desires. I spent my first day at Coco Beach, looking out at the Indian Ocean, before finding amazing gelato . I met a bunch of Tanzanian PCV’s who were in town for their MST. It was refreshing to talk to people who spoke my language (peace corps) and fun to hear about their experiences. I also met an American who's night I ruined by accident. He was explaining his trip plans and I was a bit too skeptical of his plan to do 6 countries by bus in a month. Sometimes I'm too practical and too much of a planner to be counted amongst the backpackers who are all basically flying by the seat of their pants. Oh well. We all travel differently! Live music topped off the relaxing day.

The next day I took the local busses into the main part of the city to explore. I ended up taking a tour with Dar Es-Salaam Center for Architectural Heritage. They just opened in July and are not well known yet, so I ended up having a private two hour walking tour of old and new architecture. There are buildings from the Sultan, from the Germans, from the British, from modern Tanzanian architects, and more modern western skyscrapers. I learned so much history during the tour and got a much better understanding of the city and its origins. It was a wonderful tour and I highly recommend it for anyone interested in history or architecture!

After, I went to the oldest Indian resturaunt in Tanzania, Purnima, and had vegetarian thali (I had no idea what I was ordering, but it wasn't bad!). I love walking through the streets of Dar. As long as people aren't trying to sell me something, I'm so happy to be exploring and seeing people in their daily life. My soul still aches to be living in the heart of it all in a major city. With about  20 million people in this city, there's a lot of living going on.

My incredible guide from earlier met me after lunch and took me to a massive market where I ended up buying flowy pants while we pushed our way through blocks and blocks of shops. People from all over TZ shop there for what they need. I didn't get any pictures because I was afraid of having my phone out, but it was unlike anything I'd ever seen.
She dropped at the bus station and I proceeded to be befriended by a very kind woman  who made sure I did my bus transfer correctly. We talked for awhile about hair and family, and she was incredibly sweet and helpful. It is so special to be able to effortlessly bond with another woman when you don't share nationality, religion, or race. There is a sisterhood that surpass all of that.

People had told me to limit my time in Dar es Salaam. They hadn't liked it. But I loved it. It was a real living and breathing city with centuries of history and a diverse set of people united under one flag. I felt a calming rush finding my way through the city, reinforcing my yearning to call a metropolis home. I was the happiest I had been in a new place during this trip, and it erased my boredom with myself. I was sad to leave it.

Zanzibar
The island, off the coast of Tanzania, was incredible. I stayed with other RPCV'S in an airbnb in Stone Town for three nights and then went with Evan to Paje for two. In Stonetown we went to the markets and enjoyed the history and culture on a walking tour. Evan and I also took a boat trip to a sand bar one day, which felt like a dream until it started raining. We also saw a tradition music performance and had a beautiful beach day. Although very touristy and a bit pricey, it was fun to see the unique and gorgeous culture in stone town and to spend time living in a beautiful 4 floor apartment built in the 1800s.

 In Paje we stayed in a little sand floor bungalow at a hostel next to the beach. Within 30 seconds of turning off the light the first night, something flew and hit our bug net, and I cried laughing as Evan stood on the bed with a flashlight and proclaimed “People pay $40 a night TO BE VOLUNTEERS!!!” We rented bikes and spent a lot of time doing my favorite beach activity : nothing. The food was great and the views were breathtaking. I wish I had had a bit more time in Zanzibar, but it was time well spent.

Moshi
My flight to Moshi was unfortunately atelier delayed 4 hours, so I was unable to take a hike at the foot of Mt Kilimanjaro, but the view alone was worth the trip. I met a local who took me out to see Friday night in moshi and it was lovely : live music, dancing, and karaoke. My hostel was also wonderful and lucked into a room to myself.

Arusha
I took the bus the next day to Arusha, which is on the other side of kilimanjaro, next to Mt Meru, the second highest peak in Africa. I met an extremely kind local on the bus who helped me with trip planning. Without him I would have been very stuck in a few days time, and I was grateful for his friendship.

I stayed in a hostel which hosts volunteers and felt more like a communal house: we would eat breakfast and dinner together and we even watched movies one night. I spent most of my time in Arusha figuring out my bus ticket out, but I also went to the Natural History Museum. The town has a lot of people trying to get you to buy art and it wasn't worth spending much more time in.


Musoma/Mwanza
Monday morning I took a 6am bus across the Ngorogoro Conservation and the Serengeti to Mosuma. It was a charter bus full of locals, and I had to get off at all the park entrances and exists to get my permits cleared, paid for, stamped, etc. The majority of the bus ride was on a dirt road, and I found myself repeating the mantra “people survive this every day” as the driver acted as though we were in the indy500. I was able to see some animals (antelope, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, and even elephants!) and the views were beautiful. Next time I'm in TZ,  hopefully I'll have the time and the money to do a proper safari.

The bus to Musoma took over 12 hours. I stayed the night and then hopped on another bus (only 4 hours) to Mwanza where I prepared for my 18+ hour bus ride to Kigali Rwanda. On the bus to mwanza I couldn't help but laugh as the bus driver tried to set me up with his son when we stopped in his home village. This kid could not have been over 20. Everywhere I go people assume I'm 3-6 years younger than I am. I guess the water in Solon really is the elixer of youth.

Although I spend a lot more money in Tanzania then I had planned, over all I really enjoyed my visit . I'm glad I spent two weeks in the country, but I could have definitely spent more as there is so much to see and do. I'm looking forward to coming back at some point!

COS Part 2: Malawi

It was in a very early ride through the city that I said goodbye to Cape Town and started my first leg of solo travel. I've done plenty of flights alone, but I've never gone somewhere by myself without anyone to even visit, so I was a bit nervous. But my plans were all set and I just had to take it one step at a time.

Lilongwe
I took two very early flights and got into the capital city around 1. From what I can tell, even though there are roughly 17 million people in Malawi, the capital isn't nearly as developed as Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. It's hard not to compare every where I go to Bots! As soon as I got to the Mabuya Camp hostel l passed out, but I woke up in time to meet a Canadian couple who very kindly invited me to dinner at a delicious Indian resturaunt. Shout out to Canadians who have been instant friends everywhere I've gone so far.

Senga Bay
The next morning I made my way to Senga Bay, about three hours east of Lilongwe, via Selina, on Lake Malawi. I had to take 2 very hot, very full, very mechanically unreliable “mini busses” (in Bots, combi's) to get there, including our transmission continuously cutting out on the first one, and a 20 minute police block stop in the second one, with my huge bag. Luckily, two years in Bots prepared me for exactly this situation and I got through it zen as could be. I got to Cool Runnings Backpackers and instantly fell in love. Grass, trees, padded lounge chairs facing the beach, and a little bungalow to sleep in. Lake Malawi is so huge that I thought for a moment that I was looking at the Indian Ocean: I have to keep reminding myself that Mozambique is on the other side!

 I made friends with a German couple who are driving around the region for 6 months and a London guy who has a charity project in the county. We chatted throughout the evening, and I enjoyed fish from the lake for dinner. The staff here are amazing, and since there were so few guests when I first arrived, I felt particularly spoiled.

On my second morning I woke up early to hand wash my laundry, which was in quite a state of disarray after two weeks and a lot of spilled chocolate sauce. The locals complimented my technique, which gave me great pride and made me thankful for my host mother for teaching me well. Hand washing can be hard work, but it's also extremely rewarding to see your clothes clean on the line.

I also took a nearly 4 mile beach walk, where two local guys chatted with me for most of it, until they inevitably got me to buy a painting from them for way too much. I get swindled into things for the sake of conversation just like the next person, and I always feel dumb about it after. Still, it was nice to chat with them and learn more about Malawi.

The hostel filled with people over the weekend as there was a music festival on the other side of the bay. I had a roommate and new friend from London, who I shared beach yoga and meals with, which was great. But mostly, I read, journaled, and people watched. Sometimes, the best part of an adventure is doing nothing and knowing that that is perfectly fine.

On Saturday I found my own way to celebrate Boipuso (Botswana's independence!) by taking a walk to the market and eating nsema (paleche, or maize meal) with spinach and beef, the closest I could get to pop and seswa. I even ate with my hands, something that was much more successful than usual.

Two of my Canadian friends arrived and we spent one afternoon in search of a crocodile farm. We walked for nearly two hours down the beach before we found it, and by the time we got back my already severely sunburned fest were starting to blister undetneath. But it was a fun adventure and well worth the hunt. That night I soon forgot about my feet when I accidently electricuted myself when my adaptor broke off from the wall. Don't worry mom, I'm totally taking care of myself and putting my medical kit to good use!

It was 5 days well spent at the beach. Then one more night in Lilongwe before taking a flight to Dar Es-Salaam, Tanzania!

Malawi served as a place for me to disconnect from the internet and the goodbyes behind me. It was liberating to choose not to take on what is surely the emotional work of being on the internet in these days. I was able to spend days staring into the waves, sorting myself out and starting to look into the future. I began to think more and more about home and the family I get to see in a little over a month. There is certainly much more to be seen and to do in this beautiful country, but that will have to be a trip for another day.

COS: Cape Town

My Close of Service Trip has officially begun! We did it. I am an RPCV. We had a few nights in gabs, many tearful goodbyes, including my host sibs at the airport <3 tears in passport control, tears on the plane….First stop, South Africa. I traveled here with Joiwyn, and we made quite a few friends along the way. Thank you to Joiwyn who put up with my grieving mess of a soul for days on end. Here are some highlights!

Port Elizabeth
We flew into cold and  rainy PE in t-shirts. We were not prepared for the weather! But we were able to spend the afternoon exploring the boardwalk and started our food tour of the garden route with sushi. We just spent one night and we're picked up by the baz bus (a hop on, hop off bus) in the early morning.

The Crags
We stayed in a beautiful hostel up in the hills and deep in the forest. This hippie collective-esque location had beautiful views and nice little hikes through the forest. On our second day we went zip-lining through the forest! We made new friends and played a lot of cards while being surrounded by the owners cats and dogs. The meals were fresh, healthy, and delicious. With a lot of delicious ice cream. It was so nice to see all of the green!

Mossel Bay
We hit the accommodation jackpot once again staying in an actual train right on the beach! We spent one day going out to Oudtshorn to see the caves, but other than that, we spent most of this stretch of the trip playing cards and eating. It was nice to relax and just enjoy each other's company, while making new friends.

Cape Town
What a city. It was so nice to be in a city. The hustle and bustle of hundreds of thousands of people going about their daily lives. The mixture of culture and language. The food! The shopping! Exquisite. We went on a tour to the Cape of Good Hope with an incredible guide, shopped till we dropped, and ate everything we could manage. We laughed hard at the Cape Town comedy club, treated ourselves to mini massages. I also got to see the grand opening of the spectacular Zeitz Museum of Modern Africa Art. We met up with friends and made new friends. As I type this I'm finishing dinner at The Crypt, a well known jazz bar, waiting for a jam session to start.

Joiwyn left today, so I'm on my own for the next ten days or so. Next stop, Malawi.

What a trip. What a world.