COS Part 2: Malawi

It was in a very early ride through the city that I said goodbye to Cape Town and started my first leg of solo travel. I've done plenty of flights alone, but I've never gone somewhere by myself without anyone to even visit, so I was a bit nervous. But my plans were all set and I just had to take it one step at a time.

Lilongwe
I took two very early flights and got into the capital city around 1. From what I can tell, even though there are roughly 17 million people in Malawi, the capital isn't nearly as developed as Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. It's hard not to compare every where I go to Bots! As soon as I got to the Mabuya Camp hostel l passed out, but I woke up in time to meet a Canadian couple who very kindly invited me to dinner at a delicious Indian resturaunt. Shout out to Canadians who have been instant friends everywhere I've gone so far.

Senga Bay
The next morning I made my way to Senga Bay, about three hours east of Lilongwe, via Selina, on Lake Malawi. I had to take 2 very hot, very full, very mechanically unreliable “mini busses” (in Bots, combi's) to get there, including our transmission continuously cutting out on the first one, and a 20 minute police block stop in the second one, with my huge bag. Luckily, two years in Bots prepared me for exactly this situation and I got through it zen as could be. I got to Cool Runnings Backpackers and instantly fell in love. Grass, trees, padded lounge chairs facing the beach, and a little bungalow to sleep in. Lake Malawi is so huge that I thought for a moment that I was looking at the Indian Ocean: I have to keep reminding myself that Mozambique is on the other side!

 I made friends with a German couple who are driving around the region for 6 months and a London guy who has a charity project in the county. We chatted throughout the evening, and I enjoyed fish from the lake for dinner. The staff here are amazing, and since there were so few guests when I first arrived, I felt particularly spoiled.

On my second morning I woke up early to hand wash my laundry, which was in quite a state of disarray after two weeks and a lot of spilled chocolate sauce. The locals complimented my technique, which gave me great pride and made me thankful for my host mother for teaching me well. Hand washing can be hard work, but it's also extremely rewarding to see your clothes clean on the line.

I also took a nearly 4 mile beach walk, where two local guys chatted with me for most of it, until they inevitably got me to buy a painting from them for way too much. I get swindled into things for the sake of conversation just like the next person, and I always feel dumb about it after. Still, it was nice to chat with them and learn more about Malawi.

The hostel filled with people over the weekend as there was a music festival on the other side of the bay. I had a roommate and new friend from London, who I shared beach yoga and meals with, which was great. But mostly, I read, journaled, and people watched. Sometimes, the best part of an adventure is doing nothing and knowing that that is perfectly fine.

On Saturday I found my own way to celebrate Boipuso (Botswana's independence!) by taking a walk to the market and eating nsema (paleche, or maize meal) with spinach and beef, the closest I could get to pop and seswa. I even ate with my hands, something that was much more successful than usual.

Two of my Canadian friends arrived and we spent one afternoon in search of a crocodile farm. We walked for nearly two hours down the beach before we found it, and by the time we got back my already severely sunburned fest were starting to blister undetneath. But it was a fun adventure and well worth the hunt. That night I soon forgot about my feet when I accidently electricuted myself when my adaptor broke off from the wall. Don't worry mom, I'm totally taking care of myself and putting my medical kit to good use!

It was 5 days well spent at the beach. Then one more night in Lilongwe before taking a flight to Dar Es-Salaam, Tanzania!

Malawi served as a place for me to disconnect from the internet and the goodbyes behind me. It was liberating to choose not to take on what is surely the emotional work of being on the internet in these days. I was able to spend days staring into the waves, sorting myself out and starting to look into the future. I began to think more and more about home and the family I get to see in a little over a month. There is certainly much more to be seen and to do in this beautiful country, but that will have to be a trip for another day.